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02-05-2004, 12:23 AM
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brake problem
ok, I've developed a problem... my brakes keep givving out every once in a while:banghead: ... they kinda sputter like they are trying to grip, but just cant seem to do it... also when it does that, it makes a squeaky grinding noise. if anyone knows what that might be, PLEASE let me know! I'd appreciate it a lot!
also... does anyone know how hard it is to pull and replace a wheel bearing in the front drivers side wheel?     
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02-05-2004, 09:32 AM
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you need a brake job on all fours, when they are spongy and you seem to loose brake pressure your pads are almost gone and you need your drums and rotors turned. the gringding squeky noise is actualy suposed to happen there is a little piece of metal on your pads that scrape against the disks to let you know its time for a brake job. just pull your calipiper and diskes off and replace your pads and get the rotors turned its like an hour job at most including getting the rotors turned. the rear brakes if you have drum are a whole nother deal, if your not familiar with it i do not recomend doing them take em some where should be more than like 70 bucks unles you need new drums.
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 05 GTO M6 Black/Black/Red. Banshee Guage pod with AeroForce Tech Interceptor Scan Gauge, K&N typhoon intake, ported intake manifold, ported TB, Pacesetter LTs V2 and their mid pipes with pypes high flows cats , Corsa X pipe to Magnaflow 6" rounds with 4' tips, BMR drag bags, Noltec bushings, GMM Rip shifter race V2, and a custom dyno tuned for 363 RWH and 373 Lbs/TQ. SOLD :( back to the ole nissan frontier...
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02-05-2004, 09:47 AM
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hey i got a question for you.... ok .... well im kinda in the same boat as him... my brakes are low i know that.... but it doesnt squeak all the time... like when i brake hard its a REALLY quite squeak then pause then squeak over and over... but soft braking theres nothing... is this still the tab rubbing???
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02-05-2004, 01:18 PM
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Re: brake problem
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Just get your brakes checked. Take it to midas or usa and have them look it over. Squeaky grinding noise=worn brake parts.
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2005 Pontiac GTO 12.75 @ 110mph LS2/T56. Torrid Red/Anthracite Black. Mods: 160 thermostat, MVP drag bags, CAI inc. air box, SLP long tube headers, Spintech mufflers, SLP 455 tune, factory rear wheels widened to 9". 1994 Buick Roadmaster Sedan. LT1/4L60e. Ruby Red Metallic. Mods: K&N FIPK.
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02-05-2004, 07:29 PM
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cool thanks... I'll have it checked... hopefully it's nothing major... it sucks though... I replace my pads about every 6 months.. kinda a lot isnt it? I also have another problem... I have water leaking in my backseat, only when it rains.. I cant figure out where it's coming from... it's just on the bottom part of the seat... the spot where your back is on is dry! it's just the bottom cushion... I cant figure it out... I am starting to hate my car! ok, I'm out.
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02-05-2004, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
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DAN-98 Grand Am GT 4 Door Best E/T in the GA: 14.82 @ 94.36 @ 1100 psi!!! Best GTP E/T: 12.16 @ 110.xx mph 1.702 60' Got boost? Click here for my mods. Click here for my gtp mods.  11's or BUST
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02-05-2004, 07:57 PM
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Take out the seat (two bolts under the seat 14mm i think), have a buddy with a garden hose water down the car and watch for water :)
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02-05-2004, 08:51 PM
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holy crap! good idea!... I didnt even think of that!!! I'm such a retard!
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02-05-2004, 09:07 PM
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02-06-2004, 12:44 AM
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look at the rear trunk seal too.. if it leaks down there it can make its way to your seat area.. and there is a panel where you can gain access to your fuel tank under your seat.. hopefully its not leaking there cuase that'd suck.. but yeah.. take the bottom out, have a buddy spray your car down everywhere while you watch from inside.
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02-08-2004, 03:14 PM
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well, I got my brakes redone.. front and back, pads rotors and drums.. went to get some food and as me and the girly were leaving, it did it again... I have an idea... I think I have an air bubble in the line somewhere and that's the problem... I'm going to completely flush out the fluid and fill it again.. and special ways to make sure there are no air bubbles?
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02-08-2004, 09:10 PM
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well watch it with bleeding it. you can really mess it up. did you have your wheel cylenders looked at in the rear?
__________________
05 GTO M6 Black/Black/Red. Banshee Guage pod with AeroForce Tech Interceptor Scan Gauge, K&N typhoon intake, ported intake manifold, ported TB, Pacesetter LTs V2 and their mid pipes with pypes high flows cats , Corsa X pipe to Magnaflow 6" rounds with 4' tips, BMR drag bags, Noltec bushings, GMM Rip shifter race V2, and a custom dyno tuned for 363 RWH and 373 Lbs/TQ. SOLD :( back to the ole nissan frontier...
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02-09-2004, 12:05 AM
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Heres my two cents on brakes.....
Pads and rotors are fairly simple. Pretty much any one can do it. Be sure to get the rotors machined.......ask for the thickness of the rotor and what the min. thickness is. I'll bet they won't be able to tell you (if its a non-dealer shop). This also applies to drums. I say do not take your car to Midas (or any other $9.99 shop). Only to a dealer......they are the only ones that will make sure the job is done right......they tend to machine rotors/drums (if it is safe to do so) whereas other shops tend to just replace.....leading to a HIGHER repair bill. I have seen some VERY shitty repair work by $9.99 shops at my dealership. Sure, the cheap pads may work fine.......but there is going to be a day when you are going to NEED your brakes. Which lining do I trust? The lining that has to meet OE specs (AC Delco) or the cheap ass linings. You get what you pay for. BTW the torque spec for the caliper mounting bolt is 38 lb-ft (51 N-m) for your 1997 GA.
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 -1996 Beretta LA1 / 4T60-E 15.293 @ 90.38 mph, 2.222 60', 140 mph -1991 Grand Prix SE LQ1 / HM-284 15.779 @ 89.95 mph
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02-09-2004, 12:06 AM
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yea I did... and it came out fine... the problem I'm having is happening in the front brakes... or one of them... but it's definately a front brake..
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02-09-2004, 04:22 AM
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It might not be this but I will mention it since no one else has... If you live in the north are you sure it is not just the ABS going off? That would give you every symptom you mentioned, the loss of braking, strange sound, no change after brake job, front will usually engage before the rear, etc.
I think a bubble in the line would cause spongy brakes all the time and it would be less noticeable than what I think you are describing. Wheel bearings are pretty simple, I've done both on my car. Air tools are a must for removal, don't use them when torquing up the stuff when putting it all back together though. Get yourself a good torque wrench and a long breaker bar. Before doing it get a repair manual Chiltons / Pontiac / Haynes Total price DIY: NOT including new tools it costs less than $100.00 for the part. Price for someone else to do it: about $300 (I think) 1. Remove wheel 2. Place long screwdriver through opening in caliper into the "fans" on the outside edge the rotor between the 2 smooth surfaces 2.5 Go to Checkers to get the right size axle nut and return the one they said would work. 3. Remove axle nut (where you need the impact wrench) 4. Remove caliper 5. Remove rotor 4. Remove 3 bolts holding on hub assembly (turn hub to reach bolts) 5. Remove hub assembly (Mine was on there VERY tight when I took off the stock ones. The drive shaft moved freely out of the hub so I did not use a hub puller at all but it was stuck to the steering knuckle, had to use a chisel, hammer, and lots of WD40 to get the thing off the knuckle, it took about 15 minutes of pounding on it to get it to finally crack apart mm by mm, it works but be careful) 6. Put it back together, pay attention to torque specs. Sorry for the length...
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