Car Detailing Master Thread

[Exist2Inspire]

Well, guys and gals Spring & Summer are around the corner and you know what that means? Detailing Season is upon us.

Now, there are going to be a lot of questions about Detailing ( if any other year has been an indication ) so I thought, why not just have one master thread for detailing.

The following posts will have information on what tools are needed, the proper way to wash your car, and steps to properly detail your nice car.


Section I: The Tools of the Detailer
Section II: Let's Begin Washing
Section III: Let the Detailing Begin
Section IV: More Detailing (The Fine Steps)
Section V: Keep the Car Clean & F.A.Q.

[Exist2Inspire]

Section I: The Tool's of the Detailer

Before you start detailing your car, you will need to purchase a few things. This guide will assume that you have all of these items purchased, but some steps can be skipped depending on how long you plan on detailing the car for. If you haven't noticed, I am a Meguiar's man, so most of the things on here will be Meguiars. Though, if you have a wax that you swear by, send me a PM and I'll post up information on it.

Washing Equipment

8-in. Random Orbit Polisher
- Price: $49.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This will allow you to polish your car's paint, as well as put on, and take of the wax that you apply.
- Note: Canadian Tire also has a Sunburst 8 in. Random Orbiter Polisher for $29.99. Greg and I both use that one

Superex Super Absorbent Microfibre Auto Towels
- Price: $30 @ Costco (Pack of 20)
- Purpose: These will be your all purpose towels for cleaning the car, as well as applying wax and remove it (if you don't use the polisher)
- Size: 16 in x 16 in

Meguiars Supreme Shine Microfibre Towels
- Price: $3.49 USD @ Meguiar's Direct (Doesn't Ship To Canada), included with Clay-Bar Kit
- Purpose: Cleaning and Drying. Wax Application and Removal
- Size: 16 in x 24 in

Peanut Sponge
- Price: $1.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: To clean area's you don't want your wash mit to end up ( Rims, Tires, Exhaust, etc )

Sheepskin Wash Mit
- Price: $11.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: Used to wash the car. You can use this style, or a Microfibre Style, it's all about preference

Microfibre Wash Mit
- Price: $9.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: Used to wash the car. You can use this style, or a Sheepskin style, it's all about preference. I prefer to use Microfibre.

Mother's Powerball
- Price: $24.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: Used to get into small places, usually when cleaning tires. Works wonders. It is used as a drill attachment

Eagle One Tire Dressing Applicators
- Price: $7.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: Used to apply Tire Dressing evenly and properly on the tire of the car, preventing excess dressing to fall on the rim.

Air Compressor
- Purpose: Best used for blowing out the spaces where the water can get into

Pressure Washer
- Purpose: While a garden hose will work, a pressure washer is best for getting off hard, caked on grim.

Wash Buckets (x2)
- Purpose: You will need 2 wash buckets, which will be explained in the other parts.


Paint Preperation:


Meguair's Deep Crystal Car Wash Soap
- Price: $8.99 @ Canadian Tire ( usually a lot cheaper, like $3 )
- Purpose This is the soap that will clean your car! Duh!
- Note: Doesn't have to be this brand or even this soap. And this can usually be found in-store for $3 - $4

Meguiar's Claybar Kit
- Price: $29.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Includes: x2 Claybars, x1 473 ml bottle of Meguiars Quick Detailer, x1 Big Microfibre Cloth, x1 small tube of Meguiars Car Wax, x1 Claybar Case
- Purpose: Claybars are designed to help remove contaminants that a normal wash cannot remove. It removes a layer of wax, which means, you will have to wax once you are done.
- Note: These kits can also be picked up in the USA at Wal-Mart for $10 USD - $12 USD. So even with our exchange rate, it's still a lot cheaper


Exterior Cleaning:


Meguiar's Paint Cleaner (Step 1)
- Price: $14.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is the first step of the 3 step Meguair's Cleaning Program. This cleaner is designed to remove some of the contaminats in the paint as well as very, very, VERY fine swirl marks.

Meguair's Polish (Step 2)
- Price: $14.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is the second step of the 3 Step Meguair's Cleaning Program. This is a paint polish which is designed to help bring out the paint's original shine

Meguiar's Carnauba Wax (Step 3)
- Price: $14.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is the third step of the 3 Step Meguiar's Cleaning Program. This is the wax that is put onto the car to help protect the paint from UV Rays.

Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
- Price: $29.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is a different kind of wax that Meguair's puts out and is the only type that I will use. It gives the car a wet-like gloss. Doesn't last as long as other waxes
- Note: This can be picked up in the US for around $10 USD a bottle.

Meguiar's ColourX
- Price: $11.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is a wax & polish combination that is used to help restore and clean the paint of your car.

Meguiar's ScratchX
- Price: $14.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: "Removes" scratches and swirl marks
- Note: I've had mixed results with this. Some times it works, othertimes it doesn't. The only TRUE way to get rid of scratches and swirl marks is to use a power polisher on the paint.

Meguiar's PlastX Cleaner
- Price: $10.49 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is used as a polisher and cleaner for plastic housings, like Headlights and Taillights. Highly Recommended

Meguair's SwirlX
- Price: $7.99 @ Meguair's Direct (Doesn't Ship to Canada)
- Purpose: Removes swirl marks from the paint. Haven't personally tried this but I've heard it actually works.

Orange Blast Wheel Cleaner
- Price: $7.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: A very powerful degreasing agent for cleaning wheels.
- Note: There doesn't seem to be any place in Winnipeg that sells the Generic Orange Blast Shop Degreaser. I personally use that one as it's more powerful than the normal Wheel Cleaner

Mother's Black 2 Black
- Price: $8.49 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: This is used to bring a shine to all the black trim that are car's are covered with. Mirrors, Trim (GT only), etc


Interior Cleaning:

Meguair's NXT Generation Interior Polish
- Price: $10.99 @ Canadian Tire (In Store Only)
- Purpose: Very Nice Cleaner for the interior vinyl of the car. Gives it a nice gloss finish as well, but doesn't reflect that badly into the front windshield

Stoner's Invisible Glass Cleaner
- Price: $6.49 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: One of the greatest glass cleaners i've ever used... cleans so well it shows you the imperfections/chips in your glass :(

Meguiar's Leather Conditioner
- Price: $8.99 USD
- Purpose: A very good cleaner and conditioner for those who own leather seats.
- Note: Still have yet to find a Winnipeg Retailer that sells this. It's found all over the place in the US.


Post Cleaning:

Meguiar's Ultimate Detailer
- Price: $12.99 @ Canadian Tire
- Purpose: A more advanced version of the Meguair's Instant Detailer. This is the variation that I personally use

Meguair's Hot Shine Tire Gel
- Price: $7.99 USD @ Meguair's Direct (Doesn't Ship to Canada)
- Purpose: This is the only tire dressing that both Greg and I have found that doesn't turn your tires brown
- Note: Have yet to find a Canadian Retailer that sells this. Can be found everywhere down in the USA.

Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome Polish
- Purpose: Protectant for Chrome Rims

Meguiar's Hot Rims Mag and Aluminum Polish
- Purpose: Protectant for Mag and Aluminum Rims


So, you have purchased most, if not all of the above, congrats! You just spent a fortune on detailing supplies. But trust me, it will be completely worth it once you are done.

As some of you are probably wondering, why havn't I included anything that will remove tar from my car? Well the simple answer is there is no "over the counter" chemicals that are safe for your car's paint that can take tar off. The best thing would be, go to a Detail Shop and see how much they will charge to remove it. Such a place is the Chamois @ 850 Waverely ( hehe ).

[Exist2Inspire]

Section II: Let's Begin Washing


So are you ready to begin? We just about ready to actually begin washing our car, but we need to do a few small things first.

Step 1: Filling up the Buckets

Our very first step is to fill up the two buckets we have. This is probably the most important step so listen well. You must fill one bucket with only warm water. Yes, just warm water. The reason is because we will be using this water to rinse off / clean our wash mits. This way, our other bucket will not get full of dirt, sand, mud, or whatever is on your car. From this point forward this bucket will be refered to as our Rinse Bucket. Go ahead and throw your sponge(s) and wash mit(s) into the Rinse Bucket

Now, we must fill up our other bucket with a mixture of warm water and our wash soap. So follow the instructions on the back of your wash soap.


Step 2: Rinse Cycle

So you've parked the car on the driveway / wash bay / wherever you are. Have you parked in the shade? It's the best to always wash your car in the shade just so the sun doesn't dry the water onto your car and leave water spots. I mean, if this isn't possible ( as in the case with me 90% of the freakin' time ) we just do the best we can.

Now all we want to do right now is soak the car and give it a quick rinse. If there is heavy mud on the car, now is the best time to try to remove it. Make sure you spray in the wheel wells. Also, get onto your knees and spray the underbody. Yeah it can be a pain in the ass, espeically to the older people here, but we want to remove all that salt so our floors (and all the mechanical stuff under there) doesn't being to rust away.

Also try to get as much dirt and grime off the rims as possible. It will help a lot when you actually start washing.


Step 3: The Rims ( and Tires )

Alright, so the car has been rinsed off and already looks clean. Well, we've got a lot more to go ( stop with all that whining ).

We will now begin to focus on washing the rims. Take the Orange Blast Wheel Cleaner and spray this on the rim and the wheel well cover and over the tire as well. Make sure you spray inside the rim, behind the "Spokes". This area is usually the dirtiest, and looks amazing when actually cleaned. Let that sit for a few minutes ( but no longer than 5 ). It's also better to do one at a time, rather than all 4 at once. No need to rush now.

Now using the pressure washer / garden hose spray off the Rim, Tire and the wheel well cover. Make sure you get ALL of the degreaser off, because you do not want it to dry on there. Also, spray off the general area around the rim incase some of the degreaser got on the paint.

Now, take the peanut sponge ( which should still be in the rinse bucket ) and ring it out. Dip it into the Wash Bucket then go over to your rim and clean it. Depending on the rim, you will have to push the sponge inbetween the "spokes" to clean behind there. Try to squeeze the sponge between the Brake Router / Caliper and the rim. Also scrub the inside lip ( even though it's a small place ) as a bunch of dirt like to collect in there. If you purchased the Mother's Powerball you can use that instead of the sponge for getting in the back of the rim.

Now, once you are done scrubbing the rim, put the sponge into the Rinse Bucket to clean it. Ring it out a few times, then put it back into the Rinse Bucket. Now spray off the rim with the pressure washer / garden hose. Now redo this step 3 more times, for the remainder of the rims.


Step 4: Finally, We Can Wash the Car


Now that your rims are nice and clean ( if they're still dirty repeat the step ), we can start actually washing the car. Give the car a very, very quick rinse. We always want to keep the car wet because the dried up water can do a number on your paint.

Now, when we wash the car we like to work in parts. The way I prefer to work on cars is split them into 4 different parts (each having their own sections):

Part 1: Front Bumper, Hood, Driver & Passenger Fender & Windshield
Part 2: Driver's Side Mirror, Door(s), Rear Driver's Side Quarter Panel
Part 3: Rear Bumper, Trunk, Rear Winshield
Part 4: Passenger Side Mirror, Door(s), Rear Passender Side Quarter Panel

So, we will start with Part 1. Take your Microfiber / Sheepskin Wash Mit out of the Rinse Bucket and put it into the Wash Bucket. Now go to the car and clean the first section ( Front Bumper ).

NOTE: At any point that you drop the wash mit, STOP. Take it to the rinse bucket and clean it. Then back to the wash bucket to get it all soapy, then go back to the section you were working on. Also do so if you just wiped a really dirty part of the car.

Once you have finished cleaning the section, take the wash mit to the rinse bucket to clean it. Then put it in the wash bucket and go onto the next section. When you get to the windshield, make sure you lift the wiperblades up, you can can get all over the windshield.

Now that you've finished Part I, take the Pressure Washer / Garden Hose and rinse off all the soap from the car. Once that is done, go onto the next part.

Once you have washed the car, you will need to do a quick walk around. If you still see some dirt and grim, you should repeat this step. We need the car as clean as possible before we go on waxing and doing all the real detailing steps.


Step 5: Drying the Car

Now, that you have a nice clean car, we need to dry it!

We are going to dry it, much like how we washed it. There are 4 parts and various sections in each part. Though, there are some little differences.

First of all, we have to lay down some ground rules... really there is only 1, but it's the most important one ever: If for some reason the towel drops onto the ground DO NOT USE IT!

First of all, I'm going to explain how we are going to dry the car. We are going to use two towels. The first towel we are going to use to do a quick dry. Just soak up most of the water but leave some on the paint. The second towel we will use will actually dry it. It will be done by each section ( quick dry hood, then dry it fully, etc ).

First of all lets start with Part 1:

Take Towel One and quick dry starting from the glass. This way the cloth will be damp by the time you start quick drying the paint, which, from my experience will reduce the amount of swirl marks on the car. The best path is Windshield --> Hood --> Side Fenders --> Bumper. Now, if you have an Air Compressor it will be best to use it to blow out all the cracks and crevaces between body panels and trims. In the case of the Grand Am GT, it's best to spray along the Windshield Wiper Blades and Control Arms, Black Trim, Between Bumper and Fenders, Between Bumper and Headlights, and around the Licence Plate Frame. Now take Towel Two and do the Full Dry, following the same path that you did when you did the quick dry.

Now that you've completed Part one, we shall move onto Part 2.:

First we need to check to see how dirty our towels are. If they got really dirty, then we are going to have to change them.

Take Towel One and lets do our quick dry, following this path: Roof --> Windows --> Mirror --> Door Panel. Make sure that when you do the door panelling that you get underneath the side skirts ( hope you washed under there ). Now, take the Air Compressor and spray out all the crevaces. Make you sure spray out Mirror, Weather Stripping, B-Pillars, and if you car has it Ribbing where it meets the door. Now take Towel Two and, following the same path, do our full dry.

Now, we shall move onto Part 3:

Check the towels and replace if needed. You are going to follow the top-down approach ( as I like to call it ) when doing the quick dry. Windshield --> Trunk --> Spoiler ( if applicable ) --> Quarter Panels --> Bumper. Again, take the Air Compressor and spray out the crevaces like you have done with the previous two steps. Make sure that you also spray out the contact points between the Trunk and the Spoiler as water loves getting in there. Then bring out Towel Two and do the full dry.

For doing Part 4 just refer to Part 3


Awesome! You've dried the car! CONGRATS! Your not quite done, but almost. Now get rid of those two towels you have been using and get a new one, because by now that towel has to be Dirty. Now we will be drying the rims. Now pretty much just get on your knees and dry them. If the towels get dirty ( they probably will ), just grab a new one. Remember to dry all the areas that you scrubbed.


Congrats! Your Car Has Been Fully Cleaned! Now, if this was just a normal car washing thread, then we would be done, but we not! Now the real fun begins. If your car is in the shade good! Otherwise we Have To move it to some shade, preferably a garage. Give the wash mit(s) and Sponge(s) a quick cleaning then you can dump out the water. If your running low on towels, your going to need a lot more so throw them into the washing machine while you start having fun.

[Exist2Inspire]

Section III: Let the Detailing Being


Welcome to the next part in this guide... Detailing. This area will cover lots, be a lot of work, but the labour will be worth it. Plus, your Pride and Joy will shine like you've never seen before. Note that some of these steps don't have to be done, but everything I cover here will be the best for your car.


Part 1: Using the Claybar

First of all you don't always have to use the claybar. Usually you only need to use it once or twice a year, depending on the road conditions. I usually do it right after winter, and then mid season. So, let's check if we have to use the claybar.

Step 1: Finding What Needs to be Clayed

Make sure your hand is dry and run it across the hood. Is it smooth like glass? If the answer is yes then you don't have to use the claybar on the hood! If no, well you're going to have clay the hood. Now repeat this step for every other exterior body panel, including the trunk lid, spoiler and roof ( often forgotten ).

Step 2: Let's Clay

Now we get to use the claybar. Open up the Claybar kit if you haven't already. You will be needing one claybar, Bottle of Instant Detailer, Towel. I prefer to use the towel that comes with the kit because it can hold a lot, and is very big. I will only explain how to the hood of the car, because once you've done that, the rest will be simple. If you don't have to do the hood, just follow these steps on a different body panel.

Before we start, there is on very important rule when claybaring. If it drops on the ground you have to throw it out. Otherwise you will damage the paint on your car.

Take the Instant Detailer and spray an area of the hood. Do Not spray the entire hood. It's best to work on small spots at a time, rather than the entire body panel.

Take the Claybar and lightly move the claybar back and forth over the area that you sprayed. Keep your head near the hand as you will hear the clay bar "scratching" against the paint. This may cause some light scratches, but it actually the sound of the claybar removing the contaminets on the paint. After a while the sound will go away and all you will hear is the noise it's making as it's spreading around the Instant Detailer. That section is done, so place the claybar in the case and take the towel and remove all the instant detailer that you sprayed.

Now spray a new section on the area you are working on and repeat the steps until it's all done.

Once the section is done, run your hand across it. A lot smoother now, huh? If you still feel something gripping your hand, you'll have to repeat it again.

Note: The claybar is capable of taking of tar as well. Just follow what I said on the tar blotch. If this cannot get it off, you'll have to use a stronger chemical. Also, do not just spray the whole car with the instant detailer then try to clay bar the entire car in one go. It won't work as the detailer will dry before you even get 1/4 of the car done


Part II: Using the Paint Cleaner

Alright, so we are now ready to use the Meguiar's Paint Cleaner. If you are using the Meguiar's ColourX this is where you will want to use the product. There is no point to use both of them, as they both do the same thing.

Step 1: Taping Off the Plastic

This step is not needed, but helps a lot. Take some Green Painters Tape and cover the the non-painted trim, where it contacts the paint. There is no need to cover all of it, as that is WAY to much work for what's needed. You will also want to cover the outside edges of the taillights and headlights. If you B-Pillars are not painted, you can tape those off as well.

Step 2: Applying the Paint Cleaner

Before we starting the application of the product, we need to get the Polisher ready. Take a Terry Cloth Wax Applicator Bonnet and put it on the Polisher. Now we begin putting the paint cleaner onto the car. Take the paint cleaner and pour it out in a circular fashion, going into a swirl. Now we will start with the hood. Place the polisher on the hood and turn it on. Make sure you hold on, but there is no need to put any heavy pressure on it. Move the polisher up and down the hood, from top to bottom and make sure you cover the entire hood. When that is done, do NOT remove it off the paint right away. Turn it off, and wait for it to stop spinning. Once it has stopped, you can take the polisher off the car.

Now that the hood is done, we shall follow the same path that we did when we were washing the car. If you put enough of the paint cleaner on the bonnet, it should be enough to cover all of the first part ( i.e. Hood, Bumper, both fenders ). If not, just add some more onto the bonnet.

Note: Do not apply any of the paint cleaner to NON-PAINTED surfaces (i.e. plastic trim) it is not designed for it, and has the possibility of damaging it.

Step 3: Removing the Paint Cleaner

You will have to let the wax settle, which normally takes around 15 - 30 minutes. The best way to hell is try taking some off with your finger. If it just comes cleanly off, it's settled! Otherwise wait a while. This is probably the hardest part, because you cannot let it completely dry on. If this does happen, you'll have to clay bar it off, and then re-apply it.

Now, remove the current bonnet that you have on the Oribitor Buffer, it will no longer be needed, so just throw it in the pile of dirty towels to be cleaned later. Now put on the Terry Cloth Polishing Bonnet. We are going to be doing the same thing as we did when we applied the paint cleaner. Place the polisher on the car and turn it on ( in that order ). Without applying a lot of pressure remove the paint cleaner, in the same up and down motion in which you applied it. If some of it remains on the car, just take note of where it is, and we'll come back to it. Do the entire car.

Now, there could be some excess paint cleaner on the car. Take out a clean Microfibre cloth and remove the paint cleaner in the same fashion that it was applied ( moving up and down ).

One last step in removing the paint cleaner. Take out a Polishing Cloth and just run all over the car. What this cloth will do is remove any small pieces of paint cleaner that was spread around the car ( kinda looks like beads of wax ). Once that is done, you have finished cleaning the paint!


Part III: ScratchX & SwirlX

This following step is only needed if you are using these products. If you are not using either one of these, you can skip ahead to Part IV.

Right, now it is time for us to "Attempt to" remove any scratches or swirl marks in our paint. The reason I say attempt, is because the best way to remove the swirls and scratches is professionally with a Porter Cable / Power Polisher. So, I have no guarantee that this step will work 100%

We are going to be doing the ScratchX & SwirlX as two seperate steps. You can refer to Part II: Using the Paint Cleaner for steps to apply these products. Just remember for each step you will need a clean Terry Cloth Wax Application Bonnet, Terry Cloth Polishing Bonnet, and a clean Microfibre Cloth.


Part IV: Applying the Polishing Compound

Now it is time to use the Meguair's Polish and being polishing our car! This step will help bring out the shine of our paint, which is the whole goal of this job, isn't it?

Just follow Part II: Using the Paint Cleaner but using the Polishing Wax instead. Remember to use all clean application pads and such.


Part V: Applying the Wax

We are almost done, but we are in for the hardest part... choosing your wax.

I cannot say which wax to use, because it is all a personal preference, though I can give my own opinions. Stick with Meguiars waxes. I have used many, many waxes trying to find the best brand ( Mothers, TurtleWax, EagleOne ) and I havn't found anything better than Meguiars. Here are the ones that I suggest:

#1) Meguairs NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
#2) Meguair's Gold Class
#3) Meguair's Deep Crystal Carnabuna Wax

For my car, I only use NXT Generation as I find it brings out the nicest look out of the three ( though it is the most expensive ).

Now that you have chosen your wax, it is time to apply it. Again, you can just follow Part II: Applying the Paint Cleaner for instructions on how to do it.


Conrgats! The outside of you car has been completely re-cleaned! And hopefully you notice the difference! We are not fully done yet, as there is a bit more work to do on the outside, and the inside.

[Exist2Inspire]

Section IV: More Detailing (The Fine Tuning)


Alright, 90% of the outside of the car has been cleaned! Hopefully you have already noticed a difference. Now we are going to be doing some fine tuning on the outside, as well as shining up the inside.


Part I: Cleaning the Headlights / Taillights

We will first begin by cleaning up and shining up our probably dull Headlights and Tailights. We will be needed three things: Meguair's PlastX, Wax Applicator Pad, Microfibre Towel.

Let's begin by doing the taillights. Put some of the PlastX on the applicator pad and spread it all around the Taillight ( do one at a time ). It is VERY important that the PlastX doesn't touch any of the paint. If it does, get it off there A.S.A.P. Make sure you are spreading it around so that most ( if not all ) of the PlastX is rubbed into the taillight so you cannot see it. Then, take your MicroFibre towel and just wipe the taillight, cleaning it. It should feel completely smooth now. Success! Now re-do these steps for the other taillight, as well as the headlights and any reflectors that you have on your vehicle.

The PlastX works like a polish that is designed for plastic. It can get rid of a lot of hazing on the outside of the lenses, though if some still remains, try using it again. Just remember, that the hazing could be on the inside of the lense.


Part II: Well I'm Back in Black, Yes I'm Back in Black!

Now we are going to be shining up all of our black trim on the car ( the Grand Am GT's have a bunch of it ). We will be using Mother's Black 2 Black, Wax Applicator Pad, and a Microfibre Towel.

Put some of the Back 2 Black onto the Wax Applicator Pad. Then you will want to spread it on any non-painted, black surfaces on the car. Such example, using the Grand Am GT are the Side Mirrors, B Pillars and all the black trim. You will want to let this sit on all the painted surfaces for around 15 minutes. Once you have let it sit, take your Microfibre cloth and buff out the black trim. Once that is done, don't touch the black trim for a few hours. If you do, you'll get finger prints all over it. After an hour or so, you'll be fine.


Part III: Cleaning the Glass

For cleaning the glass, we will be using Stoner's Invisible Glass. There is one downside to using this... it cleans the glass so well you can see all the imperfections and all the pits in the glass.

When cleaning the glass, the best way to do this is using two different towels. One which you spray the glass cleaner on, and the second you do a drying on the glass ( Similar to how we did the Drying of the car earlier ). Fold the first towel into quarters ( fold it in half, then fold it in half again ), and spray some of the glass cleaner on it. Take that towel at clean a single window in an Up and Down fashion. Now, take your second towel and fold it into quarters as well. Then, on the glass that you just cleaned dry it, going Left to Right.

Follow the same procedure for each window, inside and out. You can probably use the same towels for the entire car, though once they start getting dirty or start leaving streaks you will have to get a new one.


Part IV: Applying the Tire Dressing / Gel

To apply the tire dressing we are going to need 3 things:

- Meguiars Tire Gel
- Eagle One Tire Dressing Applicator
- Microfibre Towel

Apply the tire dressing gel onto the black part of the applicator pad. Take the applicator pad and press it against the tire and go around the face of the tire. Go around 3 times for the best application. Now, you should repeat this entire step for each tire. If, for some reason, some of the gel lands on your nicely clean rim, take the Microfibre cloth and wipe it off.

It is suggested that you re-apply the tire gel again on all the tires in about 20 - 30 minutes. The more you apply, the more "wet" the tire will look.


Part V: Cleaning the Interior Vinyl

Cleaning all the vinyl is very easy. For this step you will need:

- Meguairs NXT Generation Interior Polish
- Microfibre Cloth

Take your Microfibre cloth and fold it into Quarters. Once that is done, spray some of the interior cleaner onto your Microfibre cloth. Take the cloth and start wiping down the interior. Much like washing and wiping down the car, you will want to work in sections. Usually the way I will work is:

Driver's Door Panel --> Front Dash ( Driver's Side ) --> Centre Console + Cupholders --> Rear Driver's Door Panel ( if sedan ) --> Any Vinyl int the back seat --> Passenger Rear Door --> Front Passender Door Panel --> Front Dash ( Passenger Side )

The first time around you are just cleaning it. If you like the shine from it already, you can just leave it like that. Otherwise, you can add a second ( or third, or fourth ) coat of the polish on all the vinyl. Just remember, the more you put on, the more it will shine and thus, reflect in both the front and rear windshields.


Part VI: Cleaning the Leather

Much like cleaning the interior Vinyl, cleaning leather seats is just as easy. You will require:

- Meguiar's Leather Conditioner
- Microfibre Towel

All you will have to do is fold the Microfibre towel into quarters and then add some Leather Conditioner onto it. Then just rub it into the Leather. It will leave a shine to the seat. Do this on all the seats, adding more Conditioner to the towel as required. Do not sit in the seats for around 20 minutes as they take a while to dry.


Part VII: Polishing Up The Rims

We are now on the very last part of the guide. We need to polish up the rims and add a protectant on them, so the sun won't destroy them, and all that annoying brake dust won't corrode them.

For this, we will require the following:

- Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome Polish OR Meguiar's Hot Rims Mag and Aluminum Polish (Depends on your rims)
- Microfibre Towel x1
- Wax Applicator Pad

Take a new Wax Applicator Pad and put some of the polish on it. Then you will want to cover the entire visible part of the rim with it. There is no need to shine up the area where the brakes are (at least for now). Do not remove it off the rims just yet. Add some more polish and go do the other rims.

Once you've done that, you will want to wait around 15 minutes for the polish to settle.

Once you've completed that and waited your 15 minutes, you will want to take your Microfibre towel and remove all the polish.


SUCCESS! You now have a nice, fully detailed car! Take it out for a cruise and watch the sun shine on it

[Exist2Inspire]

Section V: Keeping the Car Clean & F.A.Q.


Now that you have a clean car, the real trick will be to keep it clean. Well, the best way to do that is to use something that is called the Meguiar's Instant Detailer or Meguiar's Ultimate Detailer. Just spray it on and wipe it off. This product acts as a cleaner as well as a quick wax bringing back that "Just Washed" shine to your car.



Question: How Do I Properly Wash My Towels, Bonnets and Applicator Pads?

You can wash you towels with your normal clothes, though I prefer to wash them seperately. Just use soap and let the washing machine handle the rest. When it comes time to dry them, DO NOT use any fabric softener. This will destroy the towels and leave a film on them. Also, make sure you use a low tumble speed and lower heat. The best way to dry them is to let them hang dry if you have the time.

Same thing goes for the bonnets, though you can wash both the Wax and the Polishing ones together.

With the Applicator Pads, I just run them under water, and clean them, then let them dry out.

[Ricker500]

XCargo on Ellice have a 10 inch orbital waxer/polisher on sale right now for $19.95

[Stitch]

nice find ric, only problem with a 10" orbital is that the ga's have too many small sections in one big section to use something with such a wide diameter. 6" is ideal but an 8" can work if that's all you can find. Now if you have a truck or van, a 10" would be your best choice of the 3.

[Videoman]

Nice Thread Chris... You can almost make a Novel out of it...

[Stitch]

Another way to keep your car clean from sunday to sunday. If that's the only time you actually get to drive your car on any day of the week. Is to buy a car cover or store it in a garage.

[Azrael]

When washing your towels, it's fine to wash them with your clothes (I'm sure someone will argue otherwise...) but, you should dry them seperatly. I find the fabric-softener sheets tend to make fabrics somewhat hydrophobic, which is great for clothes, but just make drying a car more difficult and time-consuming.

[Exist2Inspire]

Thanks! Completely forgot to add in how to wash them :S

[Stitch]

I've heard and read on the bag for microfiber rags, to not dry them in a dryer as this will make the cloth harder in texture. Hang them to dry

[Exist2Inspire]

Just so everyone knows... If i get next weekend off I'll probably be detailing the car ( as I think Tavern United Starts up soon ). So Pictures will come!

[99blackSE]

Originally Posted by Azrael

When washing your towels, it's fine to wash them with your clothes (I'm sure someone will argue otherwise...) but, you should dry them seperatly. I find the fabric-softener sheets tend to make fabrics somewhat hydrophobic, which is great for clothes, but just make drying a car more difficult and time-consuming.

Liquid detergent should be fine and yeah, softener affects the absorbency.